For use on walls, furniture, and objects
Pouncing, the same technique as stippling, is a term
typically used in referring to techniques such as pattern transfers, animal
hide finishes, such as faux goatskin, and color blending and softening
brush: these are commercially available and readily found at art supply
and specialty paint stores.
They tend to be expensive, so it is important to constantly clean these
brushes during use to prolong their use and to protect your investment. To
create your own, inexpensive pounce brushes, follow the simple procedure by clicking
An eggshell sheen is recommended for all surfaces being
treated with all decorative finishes produced by the Negative method of glaze
It is recommended that two individuals work in tandem to
produce this finish.
The method that
follows is designed to create a soft subtle decorative sandy effect, ideally
suited for most environments. For color mixes, combinations and recipes refer
to the artSparx color palette.
Step 1: Remove all nails and repair any damaged or cracked areas.
Prime as needed. Refer to the artSparx basic preparation resource for tips and
Step 2: For
wall surfaces, tape off all baseboard edges, ceiling edge, trim, window and
door frames. Remove all electrical and light switch cover plates. For trim,
doors and window frames, isolate moldings, doors and trim by taping off wall
surfaces and surrounding areas. Cover furniture and floor areas with drop
|Base colors and mixing your glaze
Determine the overall color value of the room or surface being treated. Choose
an eggshell base color of your choice that is lighter than the overall color
value you would like to achieve, approximately 2 values. For latex paints allow
to fully dry (8 hrs),
Step 4: Mix the
secondary, pounce color. In a bucket create a color combination that is a
value or two darker than the base color. The glaze coat is mixed as a
concentrated color, then diluted to the proper fluidity needed for the glazing
process. As a general rule it is better to mix too much glaze color than not
enough. It is very difficult to match the custom color once you have started
glazing a room. For most rooms, one quart of
liquid will be sufficient. Using universal tinters, add color slowly, mixing
thoroughly until desired color is achieved. Add ¼ cup Floetrol to help extend
the drying time. It may also be helpful to add small amounts of water to
facilitate mixing. This will be your ‘master glaze’. You can experiment in
a low visibility area of the surface being treated. Adjust color to the
‘master glaze’ to your liking, wiping clean your test area after each test
Step 5: Wear
disposable gloves. Place a portion of prepared glaze color prepared in a 2.5 qt.
bucket. Add water and dilute to
proper consistency. Experiment. Fill the other bucket
2/3 full with water.
Step 6: Pounce
brush - Use a commercial pounce brush or create your own,
inexpensive pounce brushes.
Step 7: Prepare an ordinary
household sponge (approx. 1 ½ inches thick x 6 inches x 4 inches). Use
scissors to cut all edges of the sponge to create rounded corners. Find
When glazing, always work from top to bottom. If
you start at the bottom and work upward, any drips or spills occurring can
damage already treated lower portion finish.
Step 8: Use the
sponge for the water and a clean 3 to 5 inch brush for applying your color
glaze. Starting at the top of the wall, one individual should use the sponge,
wet with the water, to dampen surface. Work in one area at a time, moving
methodically forward over wall surface.
|Glazing application diagram for wall surfaces
Apply glaze in irregular sections.
This insures a random overall appearance and helps diminish potential 'burn'
lines (glaze build up from section to section).
See glazing methods for more information.
wetting the surface with sponge or rag
Saturating the surface first allows the glaze to go on
fluidly and evenly.
applying the glaze
The second individual should take the brush, dipped in the
glaze, and brush over the dampened area of wall to spread glaze. Work evenly
over area for full coverage. Make sure not to leave any untreated areas. Soften
glaze color working in a criss-cross manner with another brush until relative
smoothness is achieved. Work quickly and conscientiously, keeping exposed edges
dampened with water.
pouncing the glaze
Step 9: Using
the pounce brush, begin the pounce process by hitting surface directly on
with bottom of the brush, holding the brush perpendicular to the surface. Use a
firm hand and continually move your wrist to vary pattern being created. This
will remove the freshly applied glaze from the surface, revealing the base
color and producing a spotty or sandy texture. It is best to go over the
surface loosely once, then return and begin to refine the pattern with your
keep brush clean
Regularly wipe brush dry with a clean rag to remove excess glaze
and to ensure a fresh pounce pattern. Work evenly over surface.
If glaze is too fluid and continually
“sags” or runs, allow to set momentarily then return and work at glaze with
a dry brush until smooth. Be aware that latex glazes set quickly.
fine tuning the finish
Step 10: Move
to next area and repeat. Do not stop until entire surface has been treated. Do
not put glaze on previous edge but rather apply within 1 inch or so and soften
into previous edge with your pounce brush or another dry brush.
At corners apply
glaze to within ½ to 1 inch of edge and with a dry brush, work into corner,
then soften, smooth and stipple with a smaller, single brush. Use light, gentle
|Applying a protective varnish coat
Step 11: A
water-based varnish, such as
latex varnish, may be applied after pounced surfaces have dried completely (24 hrs.) for protection. For wall surfaces it
is recommended to use
Step 12: Clean
up with warm, soapy water.
Step 13: Retain
some of the master glaze for future touch ups in a covered glass container.
Dispose of remaining glazes properly.
Important Tip - How to fix drips and spills
If wet glaze gets onto an area that has already been
finished and has begun to set, it may dissolve the previous finish. Simply blot
area with a dry rag to remove excess. Any attempt to repair area before
completely dry may result in a mess that is virtually irreparable. Small areas
are manageable. Correcting large areas may require removing all the paint and
reapplying it from scratch.
Small area repair:
Once completely dry (24 hrs.) fresh glaze may be touched in with an artists
brush until desired results are achieved.
Large area repair:
Treat before drying is complete. If
a large area of glaze is affected and begins to burn away, or dissolve, the
removal of the entire glazed surface may be required. To do this, dampen a rag
with warm water and wipe surface until clean, using multiple rags if necessary.
Alternatively, you may allow wall to dry completely (24
hrs.), then repaint base coat and begin again.